Category: Rv Stuff

How To and Why Should You Replace the Battery Cables on Your Golf Cart or Battery Bank

Published: Oct 21, 2018

Author: pete

Categories: Battery Knowledge, Boat Stuff, General Golf Cart Ownership, Golf Cart Stuff, How To, Rv Stuff, Yacht Stuff

Tags: How To and Why Should You Replace the Battery Cables on Your Golf Cart

Lets start off with the Why… Your Electric Golf Carts system is designed to store energy in the battery bank and distribute that energy to your golf carts electric motor to create motive power to carry you down the road, trail or across the green. The only way you can get that power to the golf cart motor is via the conductors or cables connecting all your golf cart batteries.

If you notice your original golf cart cables are cracked or showing exposed wire during your usual inspections they should be replaced immediately. If your connectors are showing signs of corrosion they should be cleaned and protected immediately with a product like BatteryPete’s Corrosion Block or Preventative. This is because where ever there is resistance it will generate heat but also severely limit the performance of your golf carts electric system. ( Picture a beautiful natural fresh water mountain stream. Come Spring time it is flowing well as the snow in the mountains above starts to melt. (This would be your battery cable system in good form.) Then Mr. Beaver decides to build a nice little damn and block the flow of your stream, this is what you get with the electricity trying to pass thru a electrical system with corrosion on connections, frayed wires, or loose connections. ( Even more so apparent on high performance systems when you would upgrade the motor/controller in your golf cart to provide more speed or torque ) In this case just bigger diameter wires are needed to handle the additional flow of voltage and amperage.

So when the time comes to replace those battery cables you will want to do one specific thing before you dig into your afternoon project. Get your smart phone out and snap a few pictures. This way you have a frame of reference and can go back to if need be to make sure you wire up the battery bank correctly. Usually after removal of all cables and / or before we will clean the area and battery terminals. Depending on how bad they are will determine the course of action. Usually we will hit them with a small wire brush and then spray off with a hose or pressure washer. Water dilutes battery acid and a good time to clean out the battery hold on your golf cart to curb corrosion damage. Also nicer to work in a clean area…

After that we will spray a corrosion preventative on all the battery terminals, let sit for a few minutes and proceed to attach new battery cables to all the batteries in question. Being sure to attach with a SS nut and SS Lock Washer on every connection to make sure they do not corrode or come loose over time. ” Remember – resistance generates heat!” A loose wire under a load ( You holding the gas pedal to the floor for a few minutes) will cause a battery connector to melt straight through to the plastic battery case… ” Which will require a battery replacement or repair ” Both can be expensive! Preventive maintenance is always the best approach to vehicle ownership. Once you have connected all the batteries again with the new battery cables, you should go back through each connection and double check it is snug ( A Good quarter turn with a ratchet on each will ensure success ) Then last but not least another round of spraying some Anti-Corrosive on the battery terminals to prevent corrosion build up.

BatteryPete offers replacement golf cart cables for any make and model golf cart as well as Corrosion Preventative to get the job done right. Whether it is a individual jumper wire lead or a complete set of golf cart battery cables. Available in 2 AWG, 4 AWG and 6 AWG. All of BatteryPete’s Cables and Connectors are manufactured and assembled right here in the good ole’ US of A! If you need a specific cable length or terminal end you can always give Pete’s team a call with your specifications. They even make custom length cable just for your cart or project. All Golf Cart Battery related items are also available here on Pete’s Golf Carts Store as well. Pick up you new set of Golf Cart Battery Cables Today!

Buying New Golf Cart Batteries – What Is the Best Battery For My Application

Published: Sep 8, 2018

Author: pete

Categories: Battery Knowledge, Golf Cart Stuff, Rv Stuff, Uncategorized

Tags: Buying New Golf Cart Batteries - What Is the Best Battery For My Application, Golf Cart Batteries

Buying New Golf Cart Batteries – What Is the Best Battery For My Application

1. What is the difference between a deep cycle battery, a starting battery, and a dual-purpose battery? A deep cycle battery has the ability to be deeply discharged and charged many times during its service life. It is designed specifically for powering electrical equipment for long periods of time. An automotive or starting battery is designed for brief bursts of high current and cannot withstand more than a few deep discharges before failure. This is why it is unable to start your car if you accidentally leave the lights on more than a couple of times. For applications where both engine starting and light deep cycling are required, a dual-purpose battery is often used. This type of battery is neither a starting nor a deep cycle battery but rather a compromise between the two so it performs both functions adequately. Only deep cycle batteries should be used in renewable energy applications. 2. What’s better? 36 Volt 48 Volt or 72 Volt systems? Systems with higher loads continuous will be better served by higher voltages such 48 volt or 72 volts if you are looking for better performance ( High Torque or Speed) from a upgraded motor or controller set up to minimize voltage drop which impacts overall system performance. The size of the battery or the Ah rating will directly effect the range or time between re-charge. Not all batteries are equal when it comes to capacity (Ah). 3. Why do manufacturers use different alloys in their batteries (lead-calcium, lead-antimony, lead selenium, etc.)? The composition of the plate grid alloy can have a major effect on operating characteristics, such as behavior on float charging and cycle life. Older lead-antimony designs have good cycling capability but require frequent water additions, particularly towards the end of life, due to antimony migration between the plates. Cells with lead-calcium alloys require far less watering, but tend to have a poor cycle life. Lead-selenium alloys are actually low-antimony types with the addition of selenium as a hardening agent. Such alloys promote good cycling capability, while maintaining a constant and fairly low level of water consumption. Many variants on these alloy types are commercially available. 4. Who makes the best batteries for my golf cart? We would recommend any battery manufactured in the US. This would include Crown Golf Cart Batteries, Deka Golf Cart Batteries, Trojan Golf cart Batteries or US Battery. The quality of the battery will be determined by the quality of the lead product inside. These battery brands have been around for a long time and are all top notch. You get what you pay for – If any one you see advertising a new golf cart battery for costs less than $100 ea – Buyer beware! Quality lead products are pretty consistent across the board though we have seen in certain areas of the country steep price increases based on one companies saturation in an area. ( No local or regional competitors) So depending on your area of the country one brand might be readily accessible vs another. Shipping these types of batteries is not as easy as us shipping you a new custom golf cart dash kit or lift kit. These types of batteries cannot be shipped via common carrier, and will need to be shipped via tractor trailer LTL freight. So being we will need to ship to a commercial address with access to a loading dock, or have a forklift on hand in most cases. If not we might not be able to supply you with batteries for your golf cart and will need to look for local battery supplier. You can always drop us a line here on the contact us page and just say – Please help we need golf cart batteries for our golf cart. Leave a name , number and your zip code. We might be able to have a affiliate warehouse or battery specialist come by in a smaller truck or van to drop off your new batteries and pick up your old ones. Installation is even available for these scenarios. Though for a small additional fee – usually around 75-100 bucks. 5. How do I select the right battery for my application? Someone said I need to buy an AGM, Gel or Lithium Battery instead of the regular “Flooded” Lead Acid Golf Cart Batteries mentioned herein. Proper battery selection may require the assistance of a knowledgeable battery specialist. You might need to talk to Pete himself or one of the team members at our parent company www.BatteryPete.com Though, most golf cart applications will still fall under the basic lead acid battery options available for purchase from our golf cart battery section found here. Lead acid batteries are the most affordable power solution to your golf cart needs. Usually if you want to upgrade in chemistry to an AGM, GEl or Lithium application the cost will also increase 2, 3 or 10 fold depending… So if you still think you might need the cycle life or 10x the life of a regular golf cart battery and paying 2 to 5 thousand dollars or more for a battery bank is still realistic for you to consider. Please contact us at 772-444-2280 or 772-247-GOLF and ask for assistance from one of our team members about AGM GEL or Lithium Golf Cart Batteries.

How to Care For or Test My Trojan Golf Cart Batteries FAQ

Published: Sep 8, 2018

Author: pete

Categories: Battery Knowledge, Golf Cart Stuff, Rv Stuff

Tags: How to Care For or Test My Trojan Golf Cart Batteries FAQ, Trojan Golf Cart Batteries

How to Care For or Test My Trojan Golf Cart Batteries FAQ

Pete’s team outlines the basics behind the heart of your electric golf cart. Your golf cart batteries! Whether they are in good working order or not will directly reflect the performance or your golf cart. Which could also cause issues or false issues with your charging system because of low voltage or an internal short in the battery bank. We have set this blog post up for informational purposes to try and answer frequently asked questions via telephone conversations over the years… You can scroll down the list of questions and answers to hopefully shine some light on your problem or worries and hopefully it will be helpful in determining your current issue with your Trojan Golf Cart Batteries or really this information will apply to any “Flooded” Golf Cart Battery not really specific to one brand though should you need a new set of Trojan Golf Cart Batteries for your golf cart Click Here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Measurements & Troubleshooting

1. How can I tell if a flooded battery is bad? To determine if the battery in a system is experiencing a problem, disconnect all electrical loads, fully charge the batteries then disconnect all charging sources. Allow each battery in the system to stand on open-circuit for about one hour. Measure the voltage of each battery. If the battery voltage spread exceeds .15 volts for a 6-volt battery, or .22 volts for a 12-volt battery a problem is indicated. Battery voltage alone does not confirm a problem. When the voltage spread indicates a problem, confirmation is accomplished by taking electrolyte specific gravity readings using a hydrometer. If the specific gravity readings show a spread greater than .030 (30 points), give the batteries an equalization charge and re-test. 2. How can a flooded battery’s state of charge be accurately measured? The state of charge of a lead acid battery is most accurately determined by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte. This is done with a hydrometer. Battery voltage also indicates the level of charge when measured in an open circuit condition. This should be done with a voltmeter. For an accurate voltage reading, the battery should also be allowed to rest for a period of one hour minimum in order to let the voltage stabilize. 3. How far can I tilt my batteries? For flooded batteries, 22 degrees from vertical is the maximum recommended tilt. AGM and Gel batteries can be operated vertically or horizontally. 4. Can I reduce my maintenance by not gassing my flooded batteries? You will reduce the frequency of watering, but will cause a condition known as stratification where the specific gravity of the electrolyte is light at the top of the battery and heavy at the bottom. This condition results in poor performance and reduced battery life. 5. What is used to clean a battery and neutralize the electrolyte? A solution of baking soda and water. Use 1 cup of baking soda for every gallon of water. 6. What is the specific gravity of a fully charged flooded battery? A hydrometer reading of 1.277 or greater indicates full charge for most Trojan batteries. This value is based upon a specified temperature of 80°F (27°C). For temperature correction values, see the “Temperature” section of this FAQ. 7. What is the correct Specific Gravity (SG) of the Trojan Premium Line? I was told that Trojan changed the SG value for the Premium Line. Is this true? How do I determine the correct Specific Gravity of the Trojan Premium Line battery I already have purchased? Yes, Trojan changed SG values of the Premium Line in March 2012 to avoid confusion over correct SG values for the Premium Line compared to the Signature Line. However, this change does not have any impact on life cycle performance. Trojan Premium Line batteries manufactured prior to March, 2012 have nominal SG of 1.260 while those produced after March 2012 have nominal SG of 1.280. To determine the date of manufacture, refer to the date code on the negative terminal which consists of a letter and a number. The letter refers to the month and the number refers to the year. A2 = January 2012, B2 = February 2012 and C2 = March 2012 etc…

Trojan Golf Cart Battery Date Codes of Manufacturing

1. How do you read the date codes on the batteries? Negative Terminal- Shipping Date. This code indicates the month and year when the battery was shipped out of our factory. LETTER stands for the month, A to L (A=January, B=February, C=March, and so on); NUMBER is the last digit of the year.

A battery with “G4” on the negative.
“G4” means that it was shipped from our factory around July of 2014.

Temperature Factors & Effects

1. How does temperature affect the performance of my batteries? At higher temperatures (above 80º F (27º C)) battery capacity generally increases, usually at the cost of battery life. Higher temperatures also increase the self-discharge characteristic. Colder temperatures (below 80º F (27º C)) will lower battery capacity and prolong battery life. Cooler temperatures will slow self-discharge. Therefore, operating batteries at temperatures at or slightly below 80º F (27º C) will optimize both performance and life. 2. How do I determine my battery capacity when it is colder/hotter? Battery capacity is basically a linear relationship. A good rule of thumb is that for every 15º F (9º C) above 80º F (27º C), capacity is increased by 10% and for every 15º F (9º C) below 80º F (27º C), capacity is reduced by 10%. 3. How do I account for temperature when taking my gravity readings? Temperature will affect specific gravity readings. As temperature increases, the electrolyte solution expands and as temperature decreases the electrolyte solution contracts. As a result, it is a good practice to temperature correct specific gravity readings. Here are the relationships Trojan recommends using: Every ten degrees above 80º F (27º C) add 4 points to the hydrometer reading.

Example: @ 90º F (32º C) the hydrometer reads: 1.250 the actual reading: 1.250 + .003 = 1.253.
- - Example: @ 70º F (21º C) the hydrometer reads: 1.250 the actual reading: 1.250 – .003 = 1.247.

4. How much should I compensate the charge voltage for temperature?

- - - - Trojan recommends using the following: For every 1º F below 77º F add 0.0028 volts per cell or for every 1 C below 25º C add 0.005 volts per cell to the charger voltage setting.
        
        1: A 12 volt battery @ 70º F. The recommended charging voltage at 77º F is 14.8 volts. The adjusted charging voltage is 14.8 + (6 cells * 7 degrees below * 0.0028) = 14.92 volts.
        
        2: A 12 volt battery @ 21º C. The recommended charging voltage at 25º C is 14.8 volts. The adjusted charging voltage is 14.8 + (6 cells * 4 degrees below * 0.005) = 14.92 volts.
        
        For every 1º F above 77º F subtract 0.0028 volts per cell or for every 1º C above 25º C subtract 0.005 volts per cell to the charger voltage setting.
        
        1: A 12 volt battery @ 85º F. The recommended charger voltage at 77º F is 14.8 volts. The adjusted charging voltage is 14.8 – (6 cells * 8 degrees above * 0.0028) = 14.67 volts.
        
        2: A 12 volt battery @ 29.5º C. The recommended charger voltage at 25º C is 14.8 volts. The adjusted charging voltage is 14.8 – (6 cells * 4.5 degrees above * 0.005) = 14.67 volts.

5. Is there a maximum temperature for charging my batteries? When charging lead acid batteries, the temperature should not exceed 120ºF. At this point the battery should be disconnected from all charging sources and loads in order to cool before resuming the charge process. Hopefully this information was helpful to learn more or continue reading about your golf cart batteries and how to take care of them click here. Should you come to the conclusion you will need to purchase new golf cart batteries you might find this article helpful.